Selvage 101

Material

Raw denim jeans are usually made with 100% cotton. This cotton comes from various places. It may be argued that out of these countries a particular one is the best, but that is personal opinion. Durability, feel, fading etc, are all variables depending on the person wearing that pair. However, some popular countries sources are USA, Zimbabwe and Japan.

Weight

Raw denim, is a very basic fabric and therefore, has the tendency to feel thick and heavy unlike other makes. This is denim weight. Denim weight really means, the amount of weight, in ounces, a yard of raw denim is and the heavier the denim, the more rigid it will be. Now rigidity may be due to starching, however, rigidity will also denote that the fabric is more durable.

Fit

Raw denim like any other pair of jeans come in various fits, styles and cuts (tapered, slim, skin and anti-fit). The key thing to remember is that whether or not the pair is sanforized or non-sanforized.
Simply put, sanforized means pre-shrunk and non-sanforized means it hasn’t been preshrunk. Sanforized denim will still shrink (about 1%-5%), whereas, non-sanforized denim shrinkage is about 7%-10%.